Introducing NTEK.TV – a internet streaming production company that produces live special event broadcasts that are streamed to the web on all sorts of platforms.

Whether it’s a sporting event, concert, or strawberry festival – we can help you reach a world-wide audience that would otherwise miss out on all the big happenings. Our productions are Full HD quality and easily integrate into the most popular sites – including YouTube Live, UStream, Livestream…and even to your own website’s homepage!

Here’s How It Works

• You have this really awesome event…
• Our team shoots your really awesome event with our really awesome cameras…
• We add exciting animations and stunning graphics…
• We even have talent host the show…
• We bottle all of that up into a network quality broadcast and stream it to the web for everyone to see – live as it happens!

Visit www.ntek.tv for more:

RØDE is offering a FREE “DeadCat VMP furry windshield” and a 10 year warranty when you register your VideoMic Pro online at www.rodemic.com!

Get it here: RØDE VideoMic PRO

Press Release from RØDE:

“As market leaders in the space it was only natural that we create another product to meet the demands and the needs within the category. The HDSLR revolution has really made cinematic video quality accessible at a consumer level for the first time, and many users are demanding audio quality to match. RØDE have answered their call with the VideoMic Pro” commented Damien Wilson, RØDE’s Global Sales & Marketing Manager.

The microphone ‘s two step high pass fi lter allows users to add a low end roll off at 80Hz that will reduce sounds such as air conditioning and outside traffi c as well as mechanical or motor noise produced by the camera. A three position level control enhances the user’s control over the audio capture, providing -10dB attenuation for use when recording loud sound sources, and additionally a +20dB gain that will boost audio levels and provide a superior signal to noise ratio in many HDSLR cameras.”

Cinevate Canon EOS to Nikon Adapter Ring ($39):

Bower ABEOSN Lens Adapter ($43):

Zykkor Nikon F Lens to Canon EOS EF Body ($18):

This photo is a frame-grab from After Effects and was shot inside of a closet.  The lighting is wonderfully soft and it keys out beautifully.  This is a great solution for anyone with limited space in need of a green screen studio (best part – it only costs $34 to build):

We had a need for a ‘news-like’ set for an upcoming show that the beautiful Tiffany (http://tiffany-williams.com) is launching in the coming weeks.  The problem was that the only space we have available (in our 700 sqft LA apartment) is a living room closet that measures 4ft X 7ft.  The goal was to shove a camera, tripod, mics, chair, and lights (and Tiffany) in to a space that really isn’t big enough to house my surfboard. Oh yeah – And it had have a green screen so that we could make it look like we weren’t actually broadcasting from a closet.

My biggest concern wasn’t getting everything to ‘fit’ in the space, but rather being able to light her and the green-screen evenly – plus - having enough distance from the subject to actually frame the shot properly. Also, there is the issue of the heat from the lights being in such proximity (and in a space with no ventilation). There were many concerns, but here are the solutions I found.

I decided to use flourescents because they have the lowest heat output next to LEDs and they offer the highest lumens-to-wattage ratio (did I mention that there are no plugs in the closet?). We wanted to keep the cost as low as possible, so I thought that I might try clamp-lights (from the hardware store that cost $8-$15).  Luckily, Home Depot has a nice assortment of these. I purchased 2 – 6 inch fixtures, 1 – 12 inch fixture, 1 – screw in socket-plug, and 1 – 6 foot extension cord, and 4 – 26watt(100watt equivalent) fluorescent bulbs. I screwed the socket-plug into the overhead closet light and plugged the 3 clamp-lights into the socket-plug via the 6 foot extension cord. I then mounted the fixtures in this configuration:

• 1 – Above ceiling fixture used for a hair-light/back-light
• 1 – 12 inch clamp-light used for the subject key-light
• 2 – 6 inch clamp-lights used for subject/green-screen fill-light

I found a non-glare plastic green-screen on ebay for $5 (search ‘chromakey green screen’ on ebay). Though it is flimsy and pretty wrinkled, it actually works really well. It was simply taped up with gaffer’s tape.  The camera and tripod was shoved all the way against the wall and I hooked up a Sony wired lav mic for sound.  The result is surprisingly pretty damn good:

Thanks for visiting – you can leave your questions, comments, or suggestions below.

• 1 – 2′ x 2′ x 3/4″ birch plywood(any hardwood will do – Home Depot and Lowe’s have it already pre-cut)
• 1 – 2-way piviting handle (the one shown is from Northern)
• 8 – Skateboard Wheels w/Bearings
• 1 – 3′ x 1/8″ x 1″ Aluminum Angle-Bar
• 8 – 2 1/2″ x 1/4″ Bolts w/Nuts & Washers + 16 Extra Nuts
• 8 – 2 1/2″ x 1/4″ (Flat-Head) Bolts w/Nuts & Washers
• 4 – 1 1/2″ x 3/16″ Bolts w/Nuts & Washers
• 3 - 10′ x 1 1/2″ Black ABS Pipe
• 2 – Chain-Link Fence Coupler

Before you take a trip to the hardware store – go ahead and order everything you need shipped (the wheels and handle in my case). The wheels need to be standard size (these are 55mm and are really cheap on Ebay). You can adapt any handle you want, but this particular one from Northern works really well and it’s probably the cheapest you’ll find ($8).  Once you get those two components ordered, you can go ahead and take a trip to the hardware store and get the rest of the items listed.

Once you have all of your materials, you’ll need to make sure you have the following tools on-hand:

• Drill w/1/4″ & 3/16″ Bits
• Hack Saw or Saws-All
• Wrenches or Sockets 1/4″ & 3/16″
• Straight Edge and Pencil
• Hammer (sometimes you just need to hit something)

First you need to cut the 3′ angle-bar into 4 – 9″ lengths. Then drill the holes for mounting the angle-bar, the handle, and the wheels. All holes are 1/4″ except for the ones to mount the handle, which are 3/16″:

• Drill 2 – 1/4″ holes on each of the 9″ pieces of angle-bar 2″ inches from each end into the ‘V’ of the bend (see diagram below).
• Use a straight edge to mark a mounting reference on the base for mounting the angle-bar 2″ from the edge.
• Use the holes that you drilled in the angle-bar to mark your base holes for mounting and drill them with a 1/4″ bit (see diagram left).
• Drill 2 – 1/4″ holes in each angle bar for mounting the wheels. Each side should be 2″ from center, but offset from one another (see diagram below).
• Mark and drill the 3/8″ holes for the handle. Align the handle so that it moves freely in all directions.

Now you can mount the wheels.  If your bearings aren’t already installed you need to do that – one bearing for each ‘side’ of the wheel (so it takes 16 bearings for 8 wheels).  Each wheel will need 1 – 1/4″ bolt, 4 – nuts, and 4 – washers. Assemble the wheels in this configuration: 

Bolt>Washer>Mounting Hole>Washer>2 Nuts>Washer>Bearing>Wheel>Bearing>Washer>Nut

Do this for each of the 8 wheel mounting holes. Once that is complete – you can mount the assembled angle-bar to the base of the dolly. Insert the flat-head bolts into the base mounting holes from top to bottom. Use a washer with the nut to tighten.  Next you can mount the handle – simply use the 4 - 3/8″ bolts to tighten the handle mount to the dolly base.  At this point you should be able to test that all of the wheels are spinning properly – you will need to adjust the tension in the wheel bolts to assure that they are rolling smoothly.  And that’s it…you should have a working dolly.

Now that your dolly is trued up you can work on the track.  The benefit of using ABS pipe (black outdoor PVC) is that it is a harder material than PVC and it’s really light and cheap.  It’s easy to move around for set-ups and it’s easy to replace if something happens to it.  I suggested buying 3 – 10′ lengths is so that you will have multiple set-up options.  You can leave 2 pieces whole and cut one in half so that you will have 2 – 10′ pieces and 2 – 5′ pieces.  This way you’ll be able to do 5′, 10′, and 15′ runs by joining the ends together.  That’s were the fence coupler come in – I stumbled accross these while I was browsing around Lowe’s, but you should be able to find them in the garden section of any hardware store.  They fit almost perfectly inside the ABS Pipe and you can wrap them with gaffer’s tape to make the pieces fit tightly together:

Here is a video with the dolly in action:

That’s it!  I hope that I have explained everything clearly.  If you have any questions or comments – you can leave them below and I’ll quickly reply.  Thanks for visiting and I hope you have fun with this project.

Convergence is the first short film in the world to be shot on the new Sony PMW-F3 camera.

If you want more information about the camera, check out the launch film from the UK press launch at vimeo.com/​16897383

It’s 3 stages are easy to set-up and the construction, though mostly plastic, seems very sturdy.  The Profinder’s metal mount adds a nice screw mount for your exsiting tripod head screw and taking the viewfinder on/off is done easily with the “tongue” mount (bottom-right photo). 

The Varavon Profinder goes for about $360 from their website here.

|HEE|

BY ORLANDO VON EINSIEDEL